The Solution: Iron Dagger ™

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  • Environmentally Safe.  No toxic chemicals
  • Hassle-free.  Programmed specific to your water conditions.
  • Low Cost Operation.  Less moving parts, no low-end compressors or tiny holes to plug up.
  • Best Value. Most compressor-driven systems will cost 30-50% than the Iron Dagger ™ at just $1,399.
Remove Iron from Water

A Smarter Control Head

The Iron Dagger ™ control head electronically meters water consumption and automatically initiates the regeneration cycle only when needed. The “brains” of the Iron Dagger adjust to your lifestyle and changing water usage.  Powered by an adjustable regeneration sequence, our technicians can adjust cycle times and even their sequence to fit your exact needs.

How Does It Work?

The Iron Dagger ™ operates by drawing air into an oxidation chamber where your water’s problems such as iron or sulfur are oxidized into particulate.  The water then percolates over a filtration media before leaving the filtration chamber free of iron and odor.

This is a substantially different process than most other compressor-driven systems like the Iron Curtain that we even used to carry.  The fundamental problems that we ran into on that system were high incidents of service related to cleaning the small parts in the control head and the inevitable failure of the compressor itself.

Instead of forcing air into a chamber mechanically, a process that introduces a point of failure, the Iron Dagger ™ simply draws air into the tank. Simpler is always more reliable. Increased reliability means lower maintenance costs.

The telltale signs of iron in water include the orange or red rust-like staining in toilets, dishwashers and washing machines.  However, not all folks with iron in their water necessarily need an iron filter.

The soluble “clear iron” in the ferrous form can be removed by a functioning water softener.

The oxidized “red iron” in the ferric form will not be removed by a conventional water softener.

Don’t fret.  We have combination softeners that will remove both types.

Although typically used for iron bacteria or sulfur, shocking your well will alter the iron measurements in the short-term.

Chlorine is a powerful oxidant and will convert the iron to the red, ferric state.  Since you then run off so much water through a garden hose to get rid of the chlorine, you’ll pump off quite a bit of the iron.

It’s by no stretch of the imagination an actual fix to iron problems in well water.

Typical canister filters are great for sediment.  They will not filter the dissolved/ferrous iron.  Depending on the micron size of the filter, it will catch some of the ferric iron.

The trade-off on all canister filtration is effectiveness v. flow-rate v. filter life.  So at the $30-40 price point, you can buy filters that will offer 8 gallons per minute and filter down to 1 micron.

However, if you have enough of an iron problem where you’re reading this, your filter life may be to the order of just a few weeks before your pressure drop is intolerable.  At $400/year+ in filters, it isn’t a prudent long-term decision.

The Iron Curtain® system is great.  We carried it for many years.  The only drawbacks to it are the higher maintenance costs, the failure point of the compressor, and the fact that it cost 50% more than our Iron Dagger ™ product.

These are the black & white TV’s or leaded gasoline of iron treatment.  There is zero need to use chemicals to oxidize iron.  You already have oxygen in your basement so all modern solutions will use a chemical-free approach.